Required

Preparatory chore

Before you take a kitten don’t forget to purchase everything necessary for its accommodation. Your child will need:

Bowls for food and water – There should be at least 3 bowls, it is desirable that they are metal plated or Teflon coated, or ceramic. Select a quiet place for feeding, with the little traffic and noise. The recommendations for the diet of Your pet are listed below, so do not hurry with making choice of food yourself.

Toilet –It is desirable to use a plastic tray with a rather high rim.The filler is filled for about one third of the tray. After going to the toilet, cats “bury”, digging sometimes quite intensively and the high rim prevents spreading of the filler. Think in advance where there will be a tray. The place should be secluded – hidden from the eyes of people, if possible with dim lights or complete lack of it. Cats see well in the dark, and such a sensitive issue as the need, forcing them to hide. Who feels nice when being looked at such a crucial moment? The tray must be clean, clean it daily and add fresh filler. Cats are very clean animals, they don’t like odors and do not tolerate dirt.

Filler –The breeder will prompt to what kind of litter their Pets are used to and will give some of the used litter with a kitten, so on arrival in a new home it will quickly realize where his toilet is now. In my kennel I use granulated natural wood for cat litter. Extruded wood pellets perfectly absorb moisture and keep odors

• Natural antibacterial properties – pine pellets eliminate bacteria and odors
• Does not clog drains is easily utilized
• Raw materials – natural scent for your pet

Carrying bag –What are you taking your pet in? In the future the carrying bag will come in handy for trips to the vet, trips to exhibitions, if You are going to pursue the career of Your pet, as well as visits to the country, etc.

Toys –The game is an important part of the life of a kitten, games are necessary for the harmonious physical and psychological development of the animal.

Do not neglect the toys for cats –it may be different mice, balls, often as toys kittens use plastic tubes and caps. Avoid such toys as a long ribbon, thread, Christmas garland and “rain”, metal foil.

Scratching posts –Cats need to sharpen claws are an instinct and if you in the house have no scratching posts, the cat itself will pick up to herself something for these purposes. Wall-paper, furniture, carpets can be put to use. Therefore the scratching posts in the house has to be and it is desirable from the very first day of appearance of a kitten in the house. Upon purchase of a scratching posts it is necessary to consider kitten habits. Take an interest at the cattery owner, the kitten is accustomed to what scratching posts: from sisal, hemp or a carpe.

Cat’s house –Each cat needs a zone of comfort and relaxation where it is possible to play, hide a favourite toy, more convenient to settle and to observe the owner, to be forgotten and to take a nap with pleasure. Now pet-shops offer the wide range of lodges, baskets, stove benches and laying. Acquisition so available and accessories so sharply necessary for charming pets will allow you to take pleasure today fully in harmony of close companionship and mutual understanding with yours “a domestic predator”. Don’t refuse to

The first days in the new house

Adaptation – So, the kitten has appeared in your house. At first he’s scared in unfamiliar surroundings, new smells are everywhere, new sounds, new people. The first few hours spent by a kitten in a new place, have a decisive influence on how he accepts his new life. Prepare the room for the inhabiting of Your pet in advance: determine the eating area, the area of the toilet (it should be as far away from the bowls as possible), a good place to sleep, place a scratching post, buy a few toys.

Once home, first of all please be patient and in any case do not rush the kitten, do not force to do something that he is not ready yet. Give the kitten time to get comfortable, he tries to hide in a secluded corner – make sure it is available to You. Do not force the kitten to come to You and in any case do not remove it yourself. The best way of becoming acquainted with the kitten is exploring the game, the game relaxes the kitten and makes it forget about its fears. Try not to keep the kitten in a room alone, until it feel itself home. It used to live with its mom, brothers and sisters, so the baby feels alone in the new house, it can meow plaintively, looking for its mum. Sit on the floor, pull the kitten’s hand, talk softly and gently, give the kitten a chance to sniff Your hand. Take up the kitten cautiously without any sudden movements.

Soon the kitten will start to swing to explore new territory – though at first it will be small, limit it to one room or kitchen. Show the kitten where the toilet is, the bowl of food and water. The breeder will give You a detailed feeding recommendations. On the first day the kitten can refuse to eat at all – don’t worry, the animal is under the stress and doesn’t want to eat, drink or go to the toilet.

First trip to the potty – Put the kitten in the pot filled with the litter, prior that add some soiled litter from the “ native” pot of the kitten. Don’t worry, the kitty will not necessary immediately peed in the tray, but it will remember this place and next time will definitely come to the tray. To get the result for sure you can repeat the training several times.

Education – Remember the simple rules that will help You in the education of correct habits of Your pet.

Feeding recommendations

Develop a feeding schedule, according to which Your pet will receive daily meals at the same time. Our nursery uses the following scheme of feeding:

Kittens 2-4 months

Breakfast –1/2 pack of baby cottage cheese, yogurt without fruit additives, fat content of 4.5-5%. 2nd Breakfast – the chicken is boiled in a small amount of broth or baby food canned meat (beef or chicken), canned Royal Canin (Royal Canin).
Day –dry food Royal Canin BabyCat.
Dinner –from 2 months we are going to give the kittens finely chopped raw beef. Meat should be pre-freezed, then allow to thaw slightly and cut into small cubes or scroll through a large grinder.

A bowl of clean water should ALWAYS be.

Kittens from 4 months and adult animals

Breakfast –children’s cottage cheese, yogurt without fruit additives, fat content of 4.5-5%, chicken boiled in a small amount of broth or canned Royal Canin (Royal Canin).
Day –dry food Royal Canin with additives depending on the needs.
Dinner –raw beef.

A bowl of clean water should ALWAYS be.

An important clarification to the proposed scheme:

The proposed scheme is just the basis, and it is not taking into account the personality and tastes of each cat. This scheme is designed to form the basic principles of feeding Your pet:

The cat should receive food at certain times. Train yourself: in the morning the first thing is to feed Your pet; in the evening, come home from work – take care of feeding the cats, check whether it has water. Animals adapt to get food at the same time. Doing this Your relationship with Your pet could be strengthened through the “ritual” of feeding.

Do not jump from one food to another, buy jars of different canned goods and come up with florid rations for a week. The simpler and more stable diet of Your cat, the stronger its digestive system. Raw meat cat should receive daily! It should be of good quality and, if the cat refuses to eat it, it does not mean that the cat doesn’t want meat – that means she doesn’t want this meat. The trial of ANY new product needs to be gradual, it concerns not only kittens, but adult animals as well. Gradual habituation to the new product will reduce the risk of eating disorders.

Learn to read labels. Advertised canned food from a reputable manufacturer is not necessarily useful cans. The longer the list of ingredients is, the more dubious the naturalness of these canned goods. Better to give the cat usual boiled chicken or canned baby food, than colorful, well advertised and quite expensive cans for cats.

Veterinarians suggest that you feed your cat either with dry forage or natural. Why? Because dry food is digested quickly, and meat is digested for a long time. Different speed of digestion adversely affects the work of the stomach. So remove dry food at least half an hour before feeding natural meat. If you follow this simple rule, the food of Your cat may be combined.

Don’t feed your cat with dog’s food. Dog food does not meet the unique dietary needs of cats.

Do not let the cat bones. They may break down and get stuck in her throat or pierce the stomach wall or bowel.

Don’t feed your cat constantly with fish! This adversely affects the urinary system and promotes the formation of stones. You can give fish 1-2 times a month, boiled, boneless, low fat varieties.

Don’t give milk to your cat. The cat does not need it, and milk can cause intestinal upset. (don’t be confused with fermented milk products, such as, for example, cheese).

Don’t feed your cat from the table. Of course, it won’t die from a single piece of salami or sausage. But the frequent practice of food from the table can cause the cat will waive its usual food. And systematic feeding cats with human food residues can lead to serious digestive problems (obesity, diarrhea, bad breath as a result). Be reasonable pampering your pet!

Be sure to grow cat grass.

The volume of food at one time should be not less than 50g or 2 tablespoons. From feeding to feeding, i.e. every day, you need to gradually increase the amount of food, and so on until 6 months. Then feed depending on its appetite. If the kitten does not eat the portion, after about 30-40 minutes it is necessary to clean food, so

Dry – Royal Canin Kitten Dry Cat Food
Wet – Royal Canin Kitten Instinctive Thin Slices in Gravy Canned Cat Food

Orijen – Orijen Cat & Kitten Grain-Free Dry Cat Food
Blue wilderness – Royal Canin Kitten Instinctive Thin Slices in Gravy Canned Cat Food
Wet – Blue Buffalo Wilderness Wild Delights Flaked Chicken & Trout in Tasty Gravy for Kittens Grain-Free Canned Cat Food, 3-oz, case of 24

Litter – Kittens are easily trained with clay litter however we suggest slowly intoducimg them to natural pine litter which is 100%, flushable and odor free.

Kittens –

• 1. Scoop Away Complete Performance Scented Scoopable Cat Litter, 42-lb bag
• 2. Fresh Step Simply Unscented Cat Litter, 25-lb Box

Adults –

• World’s Best Cat Litter Clumping Formula

In the mixed type of feeding (the scheme used by our kennel) animal can be given various vitamins to improve wool quality, raising immunity, etc.

Here are some proven vitamins and supplements.

Multivitamin complexes are designed to maintain the health of the animal in perfect condition. Their primary function is preventive: they are designed to maintain the body’s balance of vitamins and minerals and other essential for healthy animal substances, taking into account that some portion of these substances cat gets along with the food.

Hartz Everyday Chewable – Complex of vitamins and minerals with taurine for cats and kittens. Formulated with vitamins A, D3, E, B1, B2, B6, B12, Niacinamide, yeast, protein, choline, folic acid, taurine, Pantothenic acid. Dosage: kittens – 0.5-1 tablet per day; for adult cats – 1-2 tablets daily. During pregnancy and lactation, and after illnesses increase the dosage by half.

8in1 Excel BREWERS YEAST with Omega 3 Fatty Acids, Garlic – with Omega 3 Fatty Acids, Garlic – Complex contains brewer’s yeast, fatty acids, a full spectrum of essential amino acids, B vitamins, Biotin, zinc and trace elements. Improves the condition of skin and coat, stabilizes the liver, normalizes metabolism, stimulates the immune system, improves appetite. The complex contains calcium and phosphorus that can be used in combination with other drugs. Dosage: Daily 1 tablet for 5 kg of weight. During pregnancy and lactation, and after illnesses increase the dosage by half.

8 in 1 Calcidee – Calcium, phosphorus, vitamin D. Delicious pills for proportional development of the skeleton. This mineral Supplement is needed for kittens and adult cats at a time when their body is experiencing a special need for calcium – for example, during pregnancy and feeding babies. Calcium and phosphorus are in a balanced ratio and well absorbed by the body. Can be used in combination with multivitamin complexes.

Grooming of Scottish cats

Kitty from childhood should be accustomed to daily grooming, then in the future, it will be understood that the inspection of the ears, eyes, teeth, grooming is a part of his life and will not resist the examination at the vet, or on the judge’s Desk.

Once a week inspect cat ears: the shell must be clean, no rash, plaque and bad breath. With the help of cotton swab gently clean the ear canal. The healthy animal has bright and odorless sera in the ear. To clean the ears you can use a special liquid that is applied on a cotton swab, for example, 8 in 1 EAR CLEAR.

The eyes of the Scots, as a rule, do not require special care. In the morning, sometimes in the corners of eyes there could be accumulated plaque, which is removed just with water, applied on a cotton swab. Pus is unacceptable. If you found one in the eyes of your animal, it is necessary to consult a veterinarian.

Inspection and trimming of the nails should be done once in 2 weeks. The claws on the front legs grow faster than the rear. Before cutting claws examine it on the light: it is a blood vessel, which can not be hurt. Nail clipping is performed using a special scissors – “guillotine”. From the first day of a kitten in Your home accustom it to the scratching post to sharpen claws, it is a natural need of the cat and it is impossible to force the cat to get rid of its habit.

Grooming is simple. For weekly grooming You will need a brush with rubber teeth: comb hair first in the direction of hair growth and then against it. This is a wonderful massage. Comb the hair first on the back, along the sides and on the chest. Cheeks and neck massage “to muzzle”, i.e. against the grain. Cats like this procedure, purr loudly, exposing the back. While combing it is good to use antistatic spray.

All cats should be washed regardless of whether they participate in exhibitions or not, not less than 1 time in two months. To clean, use a quality shampoo for cats, Your cat will always be well-groomed, with a beautiful shiny coat.

Deworming

Even if your cat has never been outside – you should not neglect regular treatment. There are a lot of ways of infection.

Helminths as unusual stimuli embed in organs and tissues, resulting in allergic reactions. In addition, helminths bring pathogenic microbes from the external environment, stimulate “dormant” microflora in the body, reducing the body’s resistance and contributing to the emergence of infectious diseases.

• Digestive disorders, alternating loose stools and constipation
• Stool with lots of mucus, sometimes mixed with blood
• Perverted appetite, decreased appetite
• Good appetite without increase in height and weight
• “bloated” belly
• Vomiting
• Yellowness and/or pallor of the mucous
• Pet “goes” on the floor (it tends to scratch the anus)

You should note that some of the symptoms may be signs of more nasty diseases, so if you have any doubts about your animals health – do not cure it yourself, and contact the veterinary clinic.

How often: for the prevention of infection with parasites it is necessary to make deworming of your animal every 3-4 months. Also be sure to give anthelmintic drugs before vaccination and planned mating. To vaccinate an animal infected with worms is useless and dangerous.

How: ALL drugs are calculated strictly by weight.

Also at the same time giving anthelmintic it is strongly needed treatment for fleas, because they are carriers of certain types of worms.

Planned treatment (against worms and external parasites) must be hold simultaneously for ALL animals contained in one house.

Vaccination

Often cat owners don’t even know that their Pets need to be vaccinated. Life-threatening for cats are different infectious diseases, such as calicivirus, panleukopenia, infectious rhinotracheitis and, of course, rabies. Cats walking on the street or regularly traveling to the country especially prone for these diseases.

Why it is necessary to vaccinate your animals

Vaccination is a preventive measure that allows the body of the animal to prepare for “meeting” with harmful microorganism (virus, bacterium, fungus spore) or in other words a method to stimulate an immune response and creating immunity to the pathogen in the absence of disease.

The virus or bacteria is an antigen, i.e., alien, unnecessary for the body object, which he tries to block with its antibodies. Unvaccinated animals do not have these antibodies in the blood, and sometimes the body needs significant time to develop them. And the more of the pathogen got into the body, the greater the number of antibodies needed to neutralize it. The animal body does not have time to produce the needed amount of antibodies and the kitten gets sick of infectious disease.

The objective of any microorganism, trapped in the body of a host – is to stay ahead of the immune system to multiply very rapidly, striking available organs and tissues of the animal, and this multiplication is much faster than production of antibodies by the immune system. This process is the most dangerous for young animals, due to the fact that their immune system has not yet formed and the immune system is working very slowly. That is why viral diseases have adverse effects often leading to death, that’s why it is so important to be vaccinated in time.

1 vaccination – complex antiviral without rabies – in 8-9 weeks (2 months)
2 vaccination (revaccination) – complex with antiviral rabies 12 weeks (3 months)

Further the animal is required to be revaccinated annually: once with a complex antiviral vaccine with rabies.

Vaccination should be done only by a veterinarian, as only he can properly determine the status of the health of your pet, as well as to properly store and administer the vaccine. Arriving at the reception, ask the name of the drug, check the expiration date.